Dernière mise à jour le : 20 juillet 2015

Observations and predictions of wave runup, extreme water levels, and medium-term dune erosion during storm conditions

DESCRIPTION

Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004-2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measurements, defined as the sum of (i) astronomic tide, (ii) storm surge, and (iii) vertical wave runup. Runup parameterization was conducted using swash limits, beach profiles, and hydrodynamic (Hm0, Tm0,-1, and high tide water level – HTWL) data sets obtained from high frequency field surveys. The aim was to quantify in-situ environmental conditions and dimensional swash parameters for the best calibration of Battjes [1] runup formula. In addition, an empirical equation based on observed tidal water level and offshore wave height was produced to estimate extreme water levels over the whole period of dune morphological change monitoring. A good correlation between this empirical equation (1.01Hmo?o) and field runup measurements (Rmax) was obtained (R2 85%). The goodness of fit given by the RMSE was about 0.29 m. A good relationship was noticed between dune erosion and high water levels when the water levels exceeded the dune foot elevation. In contrast, when extreme water levels were below the height of the toe of the dune sediment budget increased, inducing foredune recovery. These erosion and accretion phases may be related to the North Atlantic Oscillation Index.

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keyboard_arrow_right Titre : Observations and predictions of wave runup, extreme water levels, and medium-term dune erosion during storm conditions
keyboard_arrow_right Type de documentation : Articles
keyboard_arrow_right Auteur(s) personne(s) : Delacourt Christophe, Cariolet Jean-Marie, Filipot, Jean-François , Ardhuin Fabrice, Blaise Emmanuel, Floc’h France, Cancouët Romain, Suanez Serge
keyboard_arrow_right Date de publication : 20 juillet 2015
keyboard_arrow_right Nombre de pages : 27p
keyboard_arrow_right Editeur(s) : MDPI AG
keyboard_arrow_right Tags thématiques : plage, dune, érosion, élévation du niveau de la mer, niveau de la mer, tempête
keyboard_arrow_right Mots-clés libres : NAO/extreme water level/erosion/macrotidal beach/runup/storm/dune/Vougot beach/plage du Vougot
keyboard_arrow_right Localisation : GUISSENY
keyboard_arrow_right Langue : Anglais
keyboard_arrow_right N° d'édition (ISBN,DOI...) : 10.3390/jmse3030674
keyboard_arrow_right Collection : Journal of Marine Science and Engineering

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