Observations of large infragravity wave runup at Banneg Island, France

Mise à jour : 15 février 2014
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circulation océanique

On Banneg Island, France, very high water-level events (6.5 m above the astronomical tide) have been observed on the western cliff, exposed to large swells from the North Atlantic. The analysis of hydrodynamic measurements collected during the storm of 10 February 2009 shows unusually high (over 2?m) infragravity wave runup events. By comparing runup observations to measurements in approximately 7 m of water and numerical simulations with a simplified nonlinear model, two distinct infragravity bands may be identified: an 80 s infragravity wave, produced by nonlinear shoaling of the storm swell; and a 300 s wave, trapped on the intertidal platform of the island and generating intermittent, low-frequency inundation. Our analysis shows that the 300 s waves are a key component of the extreme water levels recorded on the island.

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Observations of large infragravity wave runup at Banneg Island, France
Type de document
Publication scientifique
Auteurs personnes
Staples Tracy
Ardhuin Fabrice
Suanez Serge
Fichaut Bernard
Sheremet Alex
Éditeur
American Geophysical Union
Date de parution
15 février 2014
Langue
Anglais